Housing or caging for amphibians can take a number of different forms depending on several factors. Naturally, the most important consideration is the species being housed. You should not keep a tree frog in a terrestrial, toad environment without branches to perch upon! You should also decide whether you want the setup for your amphibian to be decorative or bare bones. Breeders don’t bother with a lot of cage furniture or fancy substrates. They are not interested in aesthetics, so they often make their caging options as sparse and as easy to care for as possible. Treefrogs require humidity of some sort, especially during the breeding season. So, it is clear that the best overall enclosure is the all-glass, silicone bounded aquarium tank; the second option is a similar enclosure made of molded clear acrylic. Both types are readily available in any pet shop. Special sizes in all- glass aquariums can be built to order as well.

Security

All tanks housing frogs need to be secured against escape. A tree frog that escapes its enclosure and is not retrieved quickly is apt to die in the unfamiliar habitat of a human house, devoid of moisture and adequate food supplies and perhaps even laced with insecticides and other dangers. Some tree frogs are also apt to become inured during a sojourn through an environment designed purely for human habitation. Other pets such as cats and dogs, espying on your treefrog along the floor are usually more than inclined to play with it, pick it up in the mouth and quite possible eat it. This is not good for either the frog or the pet, who could easily die from the toxic secretions liberated by some frogs.

For tanks, the most secure arrangement is a screen cover that locks down or can be weighed by a lighting fixture. Watch out for those sneaky treefrogs that crawl up the corners to the top and then try and work their way out by pushing up on the corners of the lid.

Arboreal Habitats

Arboreal environments are obviously for climbing species, such as treefrogs and flying frogs. In addition to providing a sufficient base, these tanks need to be as high as possible. An arboreal habitat requires well – anchored branches or perches that are sturdy enough to support the weight of the tanks occupants. Although a few tree frogs exist on ground level, most require an arboreal habitat to be completely at home. Pet shops sell a variety of driftwood pieces and artificial limbs and branches. You can also use wooden perches designed for bird cages or go out and collect your own branches, fashioning them to fir your terrarium. Be sure that wood collected in the field is free of unwanted pests such as aphids, ants, termites and the like – although, it is likely that if they are present, your frog will make quick work of them.

Accessorizing

Branches A wide variety of driftwood branches, artificial branches and logs, as well as a plastic corner hammock that can be hung off the top of your enclosure, are useful accessories for arboreal tree frogs. You can either purchase or build such items yourself.

Waterfalls

Several companies make “power” waterfalls that recirculate water from a pond-like storage conta9iner. A waterfall is often aesthetically preferable to a simple dish of water for mainly terrestrial frogs that need to douse themselves or soak on occasion. Of course, a waterfall is a bit problematic to tear down and clean, but it can be done. You may also want to consider buying a rock pool, a dish that is more attractive than a simple plastic dish (which also works) to serve as your “pond”.

Rainmaking

Yes, there is such a thing as rainmaking equipment! A rainmaker will periodically liberate a fine spray of water over the habitat. This is useful in not only providing much needed humidity for some species, but in inducing or stimulating others to mate and breed. Alternatively, if you have the time, you can use a clean, never used plant sprayer filled with distilled water and spray the habitat manually several times a day.

Fogging Equipment

Using a miniaturized ultrasonic aerosol technology borrowed from the medical industry, at least one company makes a device that produces an exceptionally fine mist that looks like fog over the habitat.

This is an awesome effect and if your going to see it your going to want it. Again, this is valuable to tropical rain forest species that need liberal amounts of humidity. And it is visually stunning. Note however that the transducers of some of these devices become hot and have injured small frogs, so you should consider this possibility before buying.

Humidity can also be maintained by using a screen cover in conjunction with a section of plate glass. By placing the plate glass over a part of the screen cover, you may maintain some humidity but be sure not to cover the entire top of the tank. A top that is totally covered will turn your habitat into a hothouse and you will risk killing your frogs. All frogs need the right amount of humidity. At the same time they need good ventilation to prevent air stagnation and heat buildup. By judiciously using the glass in conjunction with the screen and by experimenting a bit, you can achieve the right mix.

You may use an inside thermometer to make sure that temperatures do not rise too high. If water begins to accumulate on the sides of the tank and you have difficulty seeing inside, the environment is too humid and its ti9me to allow air out- simply replace a solid glass or Plexiglas cover with a screen.

Live Plants

One must be cautious about the introduction of live plants into an environment for delicate skinned frogs, because they can absorb toxins so readily through their skin. Store or nursery bought plants need to be rinsed thoroughly so that pesticides and chemicals are removed. Some plants themselves produce toxins.

For most smaller rainforest frogs, a number of plants are safe. These include pothos, African violets, and a variety of ferns. Air plants or bromeliads are a popular addition to tree frog terrariums. Plants also help to maintain humidity levels and keep the terrarium air fresh.

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Terrarium lights can be used not only for illuminating a cage but also as a reliable and easily controlled heat source during cold weather. Inexpensive in-line thermostats or rheostats can be installed by electricians. Plug in timers are readily available hardware stores and will help you maintain the terrarium at the right heating and lighting requirement for the species that you keep. If additional warmth is needed, heating pads, heat tapes, and undertank heaters are all readily available. Be very cautious when using any additional heating source. If the floor of the terrarium becomes too hot or if the heat becomes too concentrated in a any particular area, the frogs can burn their feet. This is why hot rocks should never be used. Also, always provide a thermal gradient in any terrarium.

Ultraviolet Light

Theories of Amphibians exact UV requirements remain conjectural. Diurnal species obviously would be subjected to more UV in their natural surroundings than nocturnal species. Even Diurnal deep-forest dwellers would receive reflected UV light. Most of the readily available incandescent light bulbs provide no UV, instead they serve only to illuminate and supply auxiliary warmth. Full spectrum florescent lights do provide some UV. However, the emissions are weak and are beneficial only when they are located about a foot away from the animal. Do not make the mistake of placing the glass terrarium near a window with the hope that the suns natural UV rays will provide what your frogs need. The UV light does not penetrate through the glass. Instead the setup will only overheat the terrarium.

Water Dishes and Misting

Water dishes are not necessary for all tree frogs. This is especially true for frogs that dwell in humid terrariums ( check individual species accounts for specific suggestions). Persistently arboreal species will obtain sufficient moisture from the droplets on freshly misted leaves. Misting should be done daily. However, if a water receptacle is provided it must be kept absolutely clean.

The Hydration Chamber (Rain Chamber)

The uses and benefits of hydration chambers, long appreciated by zoos and other public institutions, are only now coming into general use by private herpetoculturists and hobbyists. These receptacles can make the difference between life and death for dehydrated frogs, toads, and tree frogs. They also perform vital functions in the reproductive cycling of these and other amphibians. Amphibians are usually stimulated to breed during the evening rains of spring or the early rainy season. A week or so of evening misting in a hydration chamber will have the same effect as natural rains.

Making your own Hydration Chamber

A hydration chamber can be constructed of wire mesh over a wood frame or from an aquarium equipped with a circulating water pump and a screen or perforated Plexiglas top. If you live in a benign climate where the cage can be placed outdoors, a mist nozzle can be attached to the end of a hose, affixed over the cage, and fresh water run through this for an hour or more a day. Use caution though. If your community chlorinates the water supply, the mist nozzle technique can be detrimental to amphibians, all of which have permeable skins. If indoors, the cage placed on or inside a properly drained utility tub and the fresh water system used. It is imperative that the drain system be adequate and kept free of debris if this system is used indoors. A secondary (backup) drain might do much to guarantee you piece of mind. In self-contained systems, the circulation pump can force water from the tank itself through a small- diameter PVC pipe into which a series of lateral holes has been drilled. Alternatively, the water can be brought up to the top of the tank and allowed to drip through the screen or perforated Plexiglas. It is essential that the water in self-contained systems be kept immaculately clean.

Advantages of a Chamber

The use of a hydration unit can do much to help moisture-starved herptiles recuperate. Those that will most benefit from such a structure are the rain forest species that are shipped long distances to the pet markets of America, Asia, Europe, and other continents. The various tree frogs are among the prime candidates for hydration chamber treatment.

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There are actually many sources for a tree frog or any amphibian pet. Its best to be an educated shopper. Think about you concerns and needs, and then explore the following options.

Pet Shops

Your local pet shop is the first and most logical source for your first amphibian. If you are considering purchasing an amphibian at a pet shop, spend some time talking with the staff. Be confident that the personnel are knowledgeable about keeping herps. A friendly source of competent advice can be an advantage to purchasing your amphibian in a nearby store. The other advantages to buying an amphibian at a pet shop are that you can see and examine it in person and can purchase all of the necessary equipment you need to care for it at the same location. Moreover, you get a steady source of live food, because pet shops must stock crickets, flies, mealworms, and other live food to feed their own animals.

Note though that pet shops do not specialize in reptiles and amphibians are not likely to have a large selection from which to choose. If this is the case, get out the yellow pages. With some research, you should be able to determine which shops in your vicinity have amphibians and the supplies needed to feed, house, and otherwise care for them.

Swap Meets, Expos and Herp Shows

There are hundreds of herp events all around the United States and in many countries overseas. They may be held as frequently as monthly or one to four times a year. You can find the swap or expo nearest to you by looking at reptile magazines and other resources. The swaps provide the advantage of offering larger selection of pets, supply and live food dealers, as well as the opportunity to examine your purchase in person. The major disadvantage to buying at these swaps is that you may not see your dealer until the next meeting (This may take a while), and if you have a problem a week later it may be difficult to resolve. Nonetheless, dealers at these events tend to be quite knowledgeable, and you will undoubtedly receive good advice and assistance should you shop at one.

In addition, most of these events allow the sale of only captive bred animals, which increases the likelihood that you will be getting a healthy pet. To substantiate the evidence that their frogs are captive bred, some dealers/breeders bring along photos showing their frogs mating and their tadpoles developing and metamorphosing, as well as pictures of how they cared for the eggs.

Herp Society Meetings and Shows

There are some 50 or more local hobby herpetology associations in the United States and many similar clubs overseas. These organizations hold monthly meetings and are a good place to obtain information as well as find sources for animals and related supplies and foods. There is no better way to learn than by garnering the experience and knowledge of those who have done it before.

You can find a local herp society by asking around at pet shops, schools, your nearby zoo or animal control center. The Guide to North American Herpetology also lists such groups with contact information. Joining one of these groups provides great educational opportunity as well as a great way to locate private dealers and breeders in the specimens and supplies that you need.

Mail - Order Dealers and Breeders

There are innumerable importers and breeders throughout the world. You can find them in the aforementioned guidebook, in advertising of the amphibian/ reptile publications and society newsletters, and on the Internet. All legitimate mail-order suppliers will guarantee live arrival and unconditional satisfaction with your purchase.

The disadvantage of buying by mail is that you cannot examine your specimen prior to purchase, and if some reason you are not happy with it, it is often not worth the price of paying shipping charges both ways in order to obtain a refund or swap it for another. If you are going to do business this way – and, because of location, many people are forced to – it is wise to get on friendly terms with the dealers who are recommended by fellow hobbyists you meet at swap meets or at society/ club meetings.

Occasionally someone has an unfortunate experience with a mail in dealer or supplier but the majority of dealers are trustworthy. Getting a referral or recommendation to a mail order supplier who has been in business for at least several years is probably your best protection, but on occasion it is necessary to do business with an unknown dealer who has that special something that no one else can provide. A disreputable dealer in this business does not survive long.

Collecting Animals Yourself

Doing it yourself is a fun and educational way to obtain one or more specimens. However, in the United States and Overseas there are many laws that govern such activities, and you should be up-to-date on the legality of collecting from the wild. A field Guide to reptiles and the Law by John P. Levell, which includes reptiles as well as amphibians is indispensable for anyone interested in field collecting. Your local herpetology society can also advise you on what you can and cannot do in your jurisdiction when out collecting.

In addition to not disturb or take and endangered species you might be lucky to come across, there are limits to the number of animals you can collect, as well as limits to the methods that you can use. There are certain aspects of field etiquette that everyone should observe. For example, you should leave the habitat undisturbed, reposition overturned logs or rocks and avoid littering or creating a fire hazard. In many jurisdictions, there are seasons when you can collect and seasons when collecting or “hunting” of such animals is prohibited.

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Tree frogs are creatures to be appreciated visually; not handled. Their delicate skin requires a degree of moisture and may easily be injured. Conversely; the toxins contained in the skin of some species can cause you harm.

Touching – the message is that whenever possible, just look and do not touch. If you must move a specimen, do so with extreme care. Small specimens can be shepherded into a fine- meshed net or a disposable plastic cup. Larger specimens can be grasped firmly, but gently, in the hand. They should be held at the waist.

Proper hygiene - Scrupulous cleanliness will do more to protect your frogs, toads, and tree frogs from illness than any other effort. If kept clean and at temperatures suitable for the species involved, anurans are remarkably resistant to diseases and illness. The single most prevalent cause of illness and disease in amphibians is poor husbandry. Lack of cleanliness or adverse cage temperature figure somewhere in about 95% of amphibian problems. All amphibians have permeable skin that allows impurities from the container in which they are kept to enter the body rapidly and readily. It is impossible to overemphasize the importance of cleanliness in grog terrariums.

Ailments and Treatments – Do you have a dog or a cat? If so, you probably should take that pet to the veterinarian periodically. If your frog becomes ill, do you plan to take it to the same veterinarian? That may not be an option. Not all veterinarians treat reptiles and amphibians. Therefore, we suggest that you find a qualified reptile/amphibian veterinarian before you actually need one. It may be to late to do so when your frog is ailing.

“Redleg”- This bacterial disease can prove rapidly fatal. Because its communicable, isolation of infected frogs is essential. The pathogen Aeromonas is often, but not always, implicated. Cleanliness and a suitable temperature regimen will nearly always prevent this disease. Conversely, fouled water or land areas and inordinate chill will encourage its onset. Tetracycline hydrochloride is an often-used home remedy. However, treatments performed by a quality reptile veterinarian would be better.

Injuries – cuts, scrapes, and lesions set up an entryway for a bacterial or fungal infection. An antibiotic salve or powder may hasten healing. Look for and remove an injurious object.

Intestinal Impaction - If an overzealous frog ingests gravel or sand while feeding, intestinal impaction may occur. Small amounts of sand or an isolated small piece of gravel will usually be passed without any need for intervention. Larger impactions may require surgical removable.

Blindness – Quite recently, a form of blindness caused by lipid buildup on the corneas has bee n seen in insectivorous frog species fed an excess of pink mice. No remedy has been found. However, a varied diet would seem to be the solution.

Fungus Infection – Fungi (usually a Saprolegina sp.) may infect the wounds or scrapes of aquatic or principally aquatic species. The infection can be treated topically by removing the specimen from the water and daubing mercurochrome (2%) hydrogen peroxide( full strength) or malachite green ( 2%) on the area with a cotton pad.

Metabolic Bone disease: (MBD) MBD may occur in amphibians that are provided insufficient calcium and vitamin D3 additives in their diet. This is especially true in rapidly growing young animals. Prevention is simple – feed diets rich in calcium and vitamin D3. The cure is less simple. Once sufficiently advanced to be observable, the insidious progression of this deficiency may not be reversible. Consult a veterinarian about injectable calcium treatments. They may help.

Endoparasites: Frogs, toads, and tree frogs may host, among others, roundworms, tapeworms, pinworms, and flukes. They are not always harmful. Because of the virulence of the treatment and the small size of most amphibians, we strongly recommend consulting a veterinarian for both diagnosis and treatment.

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What do they eat? When adults, all tree frogs are either carnivores or insectivorous. Some larger frog species feed on small mammals and birds. Others eat smaller frogs, fish, or reptiles. In captivity, though, most can be accustomed to feed on insects or rodents that are easily available to them.

Still, you should be familiar with your frogs natural dietary habits. Some specialized species may refuse to eat anything else. You may need to be innovative to persuade your frog, toad, or tree frog to feed. If it has been deprived of food for a lengthy time by the collector or wholesaler, it may take some considerable prodding to start feeding again. You have the responsibility of offering fresh food in such secure and calming surroundings that your specimen cannot resist the temptation. Once it has begun feeding again, you can continue to do so. It may even expand its horizons to include a food type quite different from that natural to it.

Insects: So your frog likes insects – what could be easier? At first, finding a few crickets, houseflies, or grasshoppers seems simple. After a week or two of daily searching for insects, reality sets in. Buying feed insects is much easier than hunting for them. There is more to feeding insects to your frogs, than tossing a few crickets into the cage. You need to feed the insects well before offering them to your amphibians. A poorly fed, or otherwise unhealthy insect offers little but bulk to a reptile or amphibian. You may watch your frogs or toads eat insects everyday. However, if the insects are not nutritious, your amphibians may slowly be starving or developing a malady such as a metabolic bone disease. Making certain that feeding insects themselves are in top notch health should be a main concern of any herpetoculturist.

Feeding your Food Insects: Gut loading means feeding your insects an abundance of highly nutritious foods immediately before feeding them to your frogs. Calcium, Vitamin D3, fresh fruit and vegetables, fresh alfalfa and/or bean sprouts, honey, and vitamin/mineral-enhanced (chick) laying mash are only a few of the foods suitable for gut loading insects. You might also consider one of the gut loading diets. Insects quickly lose much of their food value if not continually fed an abundance of highly nourishing foodstuffs. Most insects eat continuously. So your insects will benefit greatly if fed the highest quality diet possible.

Field Plankton: Insects straight from the wild are already well fed. Because they have been able to choose their diet, the nutrition value of these insects is high. Field plankton are a good choice for your frogs. The field plankton are a mixture of the various insects and arachnids that can be field collected in any given location. To gather the field plankton simply sweep a suitable meshed field net back and forth through tall grasses or low shrubs in an area you know to be chemical free.

Crickets: The gray cricket is bred commercially for both fishing bait and for pet food. Other cricket species are readily collected in small numbers beneath debris in fields, meadows, and open woodlands. If purchased in suitable sizes, all species of crickets are ideal frog foods.

Where to get them – If you need only a few crickets, they can be purchased from local pet or bait shops. If you use several hundred to several thousand weekly, purchase them from wholesale producers that advertise in fishing or reptile magazines. The boxed crickets are sent via U.S mail.

Grasshoppers and Locusts - Grasshoppers and locusts are widely used and commercially available as reptile and amphibian foods in Europe and Asia. In the united States, you will have to breed them or collect them in the field. However, grasshoppers are fast, and it may take some time for you to build up your “netting” skills. You may wish to remove the large hoping legs before you place these insects in with your amphibians.

Waxworms - The waxworm is the larval stage of the wax moth, which frequently infests neglected beehives. Fishermen use them as bait, so look for wax worms at your local tackle stores. Check the ads in any reptile and amphibian magazine for wholesale distributors. Some pet shops also carry waxworms.

Waxworm tip – If you buy large quantities of wax worms you will need to feed them. Chick laying mash, wheat germ, honey, and yeast mixed into pasty syrup will serve adequately as a diet for these insects.

Giant Mealworms – Giant mealworms are the larvae of a South American Beetle. This is a great food source for many frogs. Keeping your own – Giant mealworms may be kept in quality plastic trays with about 1 inch of sawdust. They may be fed a diet of chick starting mash, bran, leafy vegetables, and apples.

Roaches – Although roaches can be bred, collecting them as needed is nearly easy. Roaches, of one or more species are present over much of the world. The size of the roach proffered must be tailored to the size of the frog being fed. A meal of several roaches is usually better for your frog than one or two large roaches. Collect from pesticide free areas.

Termites - Collect termites fresh as needed. Should you decide to hold “extras” over, they may be kept in some of the slightly dampened wood in which you found them. Termites are most easily collected during the damp weather of spring and early summer. One hobbyist has placed a huge pile of wood shavings some distance from his home and introduced termites to the pile. There the little insects can be collected nearly year round. This is certainly not a great idea for everyone; as this will result in a permanent terminate home! Collecting them as needed and using them immediately is best. Termites are among the best of foods for frogs.

Fruit Flies – Breeding stock of these tiny dipterids can be purchased from a biological supply house or collected from the wild. Biological supply houses will be able to supply you with flightless fruit flies. The genetic mutation will make handling them much easier. Mashed fruit and agar are good foods for the flies. If you use flying species, have a flyswatter handy. This is why the flightless ones are better.

Mice – Many of the largest frogs will relish adult mice. In the case of tree frogs, very few are large. Yet even moderate size specimens will accept nestling mice. These can be purchased from pet stores and biological supply houses. Be cautious if you plan to feed specimens that you catch yourself. Wild- caught rodents often carry diseases that can be passed onto your specimens or even you!

Tip – Caution

In some southern area, large slow grasshoppers called lubbers may be found. Many of them have a brightly colored (often black or yellow or red) nymphal stage that can be fatally toxic if eaten by your specimens. The use of these insects, even the adults, is not advisable.

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The Weather and the Environment

Bird watchers (with the exception of owl specialists) hope for a nice sunshiny day to head into the field with binoculars, tapes, field guide, and the like, all easily accessible and equally easy to assemble, read, and assimilate in the brilliant sunlight.

Frog watchers, on the other hand, hope for early darkness and cloudy nights. For some species, we might even hope for a torrential downpour (but a soft rain might suffice to make us smile). On moonless nights, we sally forth in darkness, burdened down with headlights, flashlights, extra bulbs and batteries, tapes, and field guides. Instead of flowering meadows, we head for swamps, marshes, woodland parks, and seepages. While there, we slog about, tracking down the snores, grunts, trills, and peeps of the nocturnal creatures we so enjoy. By the time we leave the swamps, our waders ( if we were smart enough to wear them) are usually filled with water that rushed in when we knelt in hopes of sighting a tiny anuran so camouflaged by body stripes that it looks more like dead emergent grasses than a frog.

The Season

Although birds of some sort usually are present all year round, frogs, toads, and treefrogs are much more seasonal. Over much of North America, we see most during the prehibernation time in November, and then nothing until the warming and lengthening days of spring have set in and induced amphibian emergence. By that time, we are more than ready to trudge back to the field, plodding under the burden of all the paraphernalia we think we might need.

The Calls

The calls of the frogs, toads, and tree frogs are as different as those of birds. Most off us know the strident sound of spring peppers, heard over much of the eastern half of the nation. These birdlike calls are voiced with a rising, quizzical inflection to the end. To hear these minute frogs and to see them are entirely different things, however. If you are skeptical, become a frog watcher – and you will be enchanted by the variety of calls.

How to Start

How do you start such a hobby? First, to learn the calls of the creatures you hope to see, you can attend nighttime walks with a qualified naturalist (many nature museums and nature centers offer such field trips). As an alternative, you can buy or download sound recordings on which the calls are identified. We suggest that you do both. While learning to identify the voice of anurans, learn their habits as well. Some frogs call only from vernal pools, others from deep permanent freshwater lakes, still others from river swamps.

Next, learn the whereabouts of these various habitats. Then your new hobby is easy to pursue. All you need is a dark night and heavy rain. Do be aware, though, that frog watching often leads to frog photographing. If you though you were busy before with your hobby, you have not even started!

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Frogs and toads have always been something of a mystery to humans. Today, encounters with frogs seem nearly unavoidable - in popular culture, zoos, museums, and the environment around us - but our ancestors had frequent encounters too. Amphibians were, after all, the first vertebrates to invade the land and frogs probably “fathered all of the vertebrae music on earth” One reason frogs have such and enigma is their ability to change from one life form to another. Some ancient societies saw this transformation as an omen and worshiped frogs for their mystical power; others however regarded them as harbingers of bad fortune.

To the Egyptians, frogs were a symbol of fertility. Egyptian women wore gold amulets with depictions of frogs, hoping to incur the god’s favor of fruitfulness. And in Egyptian tombs, embalmed frogs were laid to rest beside human mummies. In Asian cultures however, frogs and toads were believed to be a sign of bad luck. A wrinkled toad for example was believed to be the reincarnation of an ugly or evil old man, and when the “toad in the moon” managed to swallow itself, the result was an eclipse.

To Australian aborigines and North American Indians, the croaking of frogs was a portent of rain, and on occasion Americans and Europeans reported that the heavens “rained” frogs ( which were transported, scientists speculate by tornadoes or water sprouts that sucked up the frogs and brought them miles from their homes).

In Shakespeare’s day, people believed that the glittering eyes of frogs and toads betokened a precious jewel or “toad stone”, within the animals head; if worn, one of these stones purportedly would protect the wearer from poisons or other evils. Some also believed that if one were to place a frogs tongue on the head of a sleeper, it could induce the individual to talk in his or her sleep.

Witches, shamans and scientists have all been drawn to the unusual features of frogs and toads. The “weird sisters” - or witches - in Shakespeare’s Macbeth chant about “eye of newt and toe of frog” as they stir the boiling, bubbling contents of their cauldron. And who can forget all of the frog fables? The “Frog Prince” most certainly rings a bell.

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A hairy frog: During breeding season, the males of the west African rained frog ( colloquially called the hairy frog) develop hair like filaments of epidermis along their sides and legs. This increases the surface area involved in oxygen transfer so that the frogs can remain underwater near the egg clutches for longer periods.

A tailed frog: The so-called tailed frog of the pacific northwest has an extended copulatory organ that suggests a tail. Tailed frogs are the only frogs that internally fertilize eggs.

The largest frog: The West African Goliath frog is the world’s largest frog. This species attains a snout-to-vent length of 11 7/8 inches (30 cm) and a weight of more than 6.5 pounds

The smallest frog: The world’s tiniest frog is the Brazilian brachycephalid toad. Its largest recorded SVL is about 3/8 of an inch (9.8 mm). This species has no common name. Only slightly larger is the Cuban Leptodactylid, which is about 7/16 of an inch.

A poisonous frog: The deadliest skin secretions are produced by the tiny arrow- poison frog.

A poisonous toad: Marine or giant toads, produce a toxin in the shoulder glands that is so potent that it will debilitate or kill mammalian predators.

Lung less frog: The Titicaca frog, has no lungs, it respires through its baggy, highly vascularized skin.

The northernmost frog: Wood frogs, range above the Artic circle in Alaska

Turtle Frog: The amazing turtle frog, of arid Western Australia burrows deeply beneath the ground. Its egg clusters have been found nearly 4 feet deep in the earth. It undergoes direct development, having no free-swimming tadpole stage.

A “flying” frog : Many tropical old-world and neotropical tree frogs are assisted in gliding jumps by extensive webbing between the fingers and toes.

Vibrations for Communication: Besides audible calls, the Puerto Rican white-lipped frog, produces vibrations by tapping its vocal sacs on the ground.

Egg protection: The males of the Argentine Darwin’s frog, gather their soon-to-hatch eggs into their mouth. The eggs are then moved into the proportionately extensive vocal sac, where the tadpoles hatch, grow, and undergo metamorphosis, to finally emerge as youngsters. In a variation of the above theme, the females of the ( possibly extinct) Australian gastric-brood-ing frog, carry and brood their young in their stomach. Chemicals produced by the tadpoles inhibit the production of the female’s digestive enzymes. The young are forcibly disgorged following their metamorphosis!

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Vision

Frogs have large, well developed eyes that sit prominently at the tops of their head, offering most species the ability to see in any direction. Experiments indicate that frogs have excellent depth perception and are able to easily differentiate between prey and predator. They can see for vast distances. The eyes of tadpoles are located at the sides and tops of their heads and have less binocular vision than their adult counterparts. Based on the study of amphibian eyes, it has been determined that they have fairly good color vision. Tree frogs move toward green ( forested terrain) and aquatic frogs have a preference for blue light.

Olfactory Senses

Frogs have two basic organs for chemical olfaction or detection of odors. One is the epithelium of the nose, and the other is the Jacobson’s Organ, also known as the vomeronasal organ, located near the internal nostrils above the roof of the mouth. Airborne and aquatic odors are sensed mainly by the nasal or olfactory epithelium, whereas substances that end up in the mouth or on the tongue are sensed by the vomeronasal organs. The sense of smell is generally well developed and after sight, olfaction is the most important sense. The sense of smell in frogs has been linked to sex recognition, detection of breeding ponds, recognition of siblings, recognition of eggs, and recognition of individuals. It is also involved in delimiting territories as well as enabling prey detection, especially in low light or no light situations. Thus it is used in finding mates; avoiding enemies and helping amphibians find their way home, as well as getting a meal!

Hearing, Voice and Communication

Frogs and toads have well developed ears- including an eardrum that is visible behind the eye (tympanium) in some species. Frogs use their hearing mainly for one purpose: listing and communicating with other frogs. Amazingly, frogs even have dialects. For example frogs from a certain lake can distinguish the sounds of frogs from their own lake, and that of other frogs of the same species in a different lake, speaking the same language but with a different dialect. Frogs and toads communicate with each other by voice and in some cases by body language or movements. It is probable that frogs were the first vertebrates to communicate with each other by some sort of sound or speech. It is primarily the male of the species that has the best developed voice, as females are usually mute. Frog calls are most predominately heard during the mating season, the sounds are also known as the mating call. The sound is produced by the voice box or larynx which lies in the throat. Most frogs have vocal sacs that act as resonating or amplifying chambers.

Body Language

Some frog species have been observed waving their arms around in what certainly looks like some sort of signal, greeting, or similar form of communication. This was first observed by the small Australian frog. According to the observation, it appeared as these frogs were waving to each other. The purpose of such behaviors is not clear. It may simply be a muscle stretching exercise, or it may be some form of communication behavior or signal. It clearly resembles the hello/goodbye waving of people, and this makes it all the more mysterious.

Posted in Frog Anatomy

Like all amphibians, frogs need moisture. They leave water cautiously and most return to breed. Without moisture, their marvelous skin could not transfer oxygen from both air and water. Frog eggs are most particularly vulnerable to drying out for they have no protective shell.

All frogs are superficially of a simple design; they have few vertebrate ( five to ten) and the bones in their front legs and back are fused. In contrast, humans have 33 vertebrae, our lower arm bones are separated into radius and ulna, and our lower leg bones are separated into tibia and fibula. The two major bones in frogs are fused or partially fused. These particular features are adaptations to leaping and the stress that each landing will place on the skeleton.

The frog skull is a simple structure with virtually no neck, so almost all frogs must move their entire body to look in a different direction. In most species, nature has overcome this limitation by installing large, protruding eyes that provide almost 360- degree vision. Most species of frogs also have sharp eyesight, which helps guide their long tongues when they are capturing prey.

Frogs are ectotherms, which means that they obtain their heat from external sources. In contrast humans are endotherms, with an internal furnace that must be fueled daily to maintain a body temperature of around 37 degrees Celsius. Ectotherms are often called cold-blooded, but this term is a misnomer. Since their body temperature comes directly from the sun or from proximity to a heat source, on warm days ectotherms are warm. Moreover, cold blooded is a pejorative term implying cruelty and malevolence. I suspect, that the brain of a frog, does not contain room for these higher functions.

Because frogs cannot control their temperature internally, they do so behaviorally. During active periods of the year- usually the wet season in the tropics and the warm season in temperate areas- frogs select areas that provide heat but not too much heat. A move to the shade significantly reduces their temperature, as does a move into the water. This temperature control is critical because frogs that are too hot will die and frogs that are too cold will be unable to flee from danger or catch their prey.

Frogs that live in the temperate zone experience at least a few months every year when no source of heat is adequate to meet their needs. So they skip this season by hibernating. During hibernation, which may take place on wet litter at the bottom of ponds and lakes, they are very close to death. During hibernation, a frogs energy reserves remain largely intact for use during the spring to come.

Adaptations specific to Tree frogs

Treefrogs are obviously climbing frogs. They have special toe pads that allow them to cling to leaves, twigs, and tree trunks. Yes, what put the tree into treefrog? The toe pads did. Toe pads allow treefrogs to climb. Toepads are large, rounded tips on the treefrogs toes. The pads make it possible for treefrogs to cling to branches, leaves, or even glass. When a treefrog jumps onto a leaf, the toepads keep the treefrog from falling off. Toe pads are moist. This moisture allows them to cling to smooth surfaces. The moisture on toe pads is not sticky like glue. It is mostly water. Water can hold things together on its own.

Treefrogs can quickly change the tone of their skin from light to dark. Warmth and light backgrounds can make them turn light. Cold and dark backgrounds can make them turn dark. A few treefrogs can change colors. Gray tree frogs can turn from gray to green to blend in with leaves. The lemur treefrog can turn from a reddish color to green. Barking tree frogs can change from plain, bright green to green with dark spots. Most tree frogs are colored for camouflage. Their patterns and colors help them blend in with lichens, stones, leaves, or bark. The camouflage keeps them safe from birds and other predators that hunt by sight.

Tree frogs have big eyes to help them see better at night. Tree frogs are nocturnal, which means they are active at night. They find their prey by sight. They also make giant leaps from one twig to another. It takes a good eye to land safely. Big eyes can open wide to let in a lot of light. Large eyes also mean big retinas. The retina is in the back of the eye. It senses light and sends messages to the brain. A big retina helps a frog see in low light. The colored part of a treefrogs eye is called the iris. It opens wide in the dark of night to let in more light. It closes to a slit during the day to protect the eye from too much light.

Posted in Frog Anatomy