Housing or caging for amphibians can take a number of different forms depending on several factors. Naturally, the most important consideration is the species being housed. You should not keep a tree frog in a terrestrial, toad environment without branches to perch upon! You should also decide whether you want the setup for your amphibian to be decorative or bare bones. Breeders don’t bother with a lot of cage furniture or fancy substrates. They are not interested in aesthetics, so they often make their caging options as sparse and as easy to care for as possible. Treefrogs require humidity of some sort, especially during the breeding season. So, it is clear that the best overall enclosure is the all-glass, silicone bounded aquarium tank; the second option is a similar enclosure made of molded clear acrylic. Both types are readily available in any pet shop. Special sizes in all- glass aquariums can be built to order as well.

Security

All tanks housing frogs need to be secured against escape. A tree frog that escapes its enclosure and is not retrieved quickly is apt to die in the unfamiliar habitat of a human house, devoid of moisture and adequate food supplies and perhaps even laced with insecticides and other dangers. Some tree frogs are also apt to become inured during a sojourn through an environment designed purely for human habitation. Other pets such as cats and dogs, espying on your treefrog along the floor are usually more than inclined to play with it, pick it up in the mouth and quite possible eat it. This is not good for either the frog or the pet, who could easily die from the toxic secretions liberated by some frogs.

For tanks, the most secure arrangement is a screen cover that locks down or can be weighed by a lighting fixture. Watch out for those sneaky treefrogs that crawl up the corners to the top and then try and work their way out by pushing up on the corners of the lid.

Arboreal Habitats

Arboreal environments are obviously for climbing species, such as treefrogs and flying frogs. In addition to providing a sufficient base, these tanks need to be as high as possible. An arboreal habitat requires well – anchored branches or perches that are sturdy enough to support the weight of the tanks occupants. Although a few tree frogs exist on ground level, most require an arboreal habitat to be completely at home. Pet shops sell a variety of driftwood pieces and artificial limbs and branches. You can also use wooden perches designed for bird cages or go out and collect your own branches, fashioning them to fir your terrarium. Be sure that wood collected in the field is free of unwanted pests such as aphids, ants, termites and the like – although, it is likely that if they are present, your frog will make quick work of them.

Accessorizing

Branches A wide variety of driftwood branches, artificial branches and logs, as well as a plastic corner hammock that can be hung off the top of your enclosure, are useful accessories for arboreal tree frogs. You can either purchase or build such items yourself.

Waterfalls

Several companies make “power” waterfalls that recirculate water from a pond-like storage conta9iner. A waterfall is often aesthetically preferable to a simple dish of water for mainly terrestrial frogs that need to douse themselves or soak on occasion. Of course, a waterfall is a bit problematic to tear down and clean, but it can be done. You may also want to consider buying a rock pool, a dish that is more attractive than a simple plastic dish (which also works) to serve as your “pond”.

Rainmaking

Yes, there is such a thing as rainmaking equipment! A rainmaker will periodically liberate a fine spray of water over the habitat. This is useful in not only providing much needed humidity for some species, but in inducing or stimulating others to mate and breed. Alternatively, if you have the time, you can use a clean, never used plant sprayer filled with distilled water and spray the habitat manually several times a day.

Fogging Equipment

Using a miniaturized ultrasonic aerosol technology borrowed from the medical industry, at least one company makes a device that produces an exceptionally fine mist that looks like fog over the habitat.

This is an awesome effect and if your going to see it your going to want it. Again, this is valuable to tropical rain forest species that need liberal amounts of humidity. And it is visually stunning. Note however that the transducers of some of these devices become hot and have injured small frogs, so you should consider this possibility before buying.

Humidity can also be maintained by using a screen cover in conjunction with a section of plate glass. By placing the plate glass over a part of the screen cover, you may maintain some humidity but be sure not to cover the entire top of the tank. A top that is totally covered will turn your habitat into a hothouse and you will risk killing your frogs. All frogs need the right amount of humidity. At the same time they need good ventilation to prevent air stagnation and heat buildup. By judiciously using the glass in conjunction with the screen and by experimenting a bit, you can achieve the right mix.

You may use an inside thermometer to make sure that temperatures do not rise too high. If water begins to accumulate on the sides of the tank and you have difficulty seeing inside, the environment is too humid and its ti9me to allow air out- simply replace a solid glass or Plexiglas cover with a screen.

Live Plants

One must be cautious about the introduction of live plants into an environment for delicate skinned frogs, because they can absorb toxins so readily through their skin. Store or nursery bought plants need to be rinsed thoroughly so that pesticides and chemicals are removed. Some plants themselves produce toxins.

For most smaller rainforest frogs, a number of plants are safe. These include pothos, African violets, and a variety of ferns. Air plants or bromeliads are a popular addition to tree frog terrariums. Plants also help to maintain humidity levels and keep the terrarium air fresh.